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Set The Video: Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares USA, Channel 4, Friday, 12 February, 9pm

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gordon-ramsay-lamb.jpgGordon Ramsay has gone from eye-popping curio to something akin to an old drunk shouting at passers-by from the door of a pub. Once, the TV he made was fascinating. It was equal parts cruelty and frustration. Now... well, it's just shouting. Relentless, unforgiving howling into the wind. And the bad news is that it's back to curdle your blood in Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares USA (Channel 4, Friday, 12 February, 9pm).

Yep, Gordo heads to America to try and rescue yet another failing restaurant. Why he bothers I've no idea. Apart from the cheque he gets from Channel 4 of course.

Anyway, The Hot Potato Cafe in Fishtown, Philadelphia has been given the nickname of 'Spuddy Hell'. As a pun, it doesn't really work. I'd prefer Tater Hater or something... although, that doesn't really work either.

Whatever. The three owners rely on their niece to cook in the kitchen and the problem with that is down to the fact that she's never been trained and, more importantly, can't be arsed.

It's usual routine that'll be wheeled out for us to gawp at. However, as this is in America, Ramsay will afford himself the luxury of amping up his abuse (which seems to reach unfathomable levels when away from Britain) as well as really turning on the nervous tics.

Cheer every time he says "Uh?", "Big boy", "Yes chef!", mutters "Fuck me", slaps the back of his hand into his other hand, dances on the spot like he needs the toilet and does a brief throat cutting motion to signal 'it's over'.

You'll be hoarse.

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