It's strange that Gordon Ramsay's F Word (Channel 4, Tuesday, 15 December, 9pm) is back on our TVs and no-one seems to give a fig. Once, it was a telly giant that had everyone chattering like scared apes... but now... everyone lies about scratching their backsides and thinking "Oh, it's you again...".

The thing with Gordon Ramsay ("YES CHEF!") is that he was once a fun ogre. His weird White Cliffs of Dover face would hulk into view, he'd get a nipple out and then hurl profanities at everyone within earshot.

He then went a bit mental and had more nervous tics than the Saint Vitus' Dance Christmas Ball. The hand chop, the hand slap, the "uh!", the "yes big boy?" and all the rest. Watching Gordon Ramsay was like watching a normal cookery show in fast forward.

Now, he's all toothless and bloated like an old dog. You can go right up to him, tickle his belly and steal his dish and he'll do little more than meekly growl before nodding off again.

Last night, we saw him looking at cuisine from the Americas. This meant some mouth-watering Argentinian food and some exciting Caribbean grub. Two small eateries battled it out and it made me wish I had a teleporter to get me to their restaurants to scoff as much meat as I possibly could in as short a time as possible.

Anyway, way from that, Ol' Gordo slumped about the place looking like he was still thinking about a few months ago, when the whole of Australia seemingly told him off in unison. To prove he was still All Man, we got a VT of him buggering off to Canada to hunt snow geese. Alas, all he did when he got there was complain about the cold and failed to shoot a single bird.

Rest assured, it's only a matter of time before the bullish Ramsay returns to our screens. Whether we've moved on by that point is another matter entirely.