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TV Review: The Restaurant, BBC Two, Thursday 24 October, 8pm

By Paul Hirons on October 24th, 2008 1 comment

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Pressure does funny things to people. With only three couples left and one week to go to the final of this excellent series, you could see the pressure and the stress really starting to tell on the remaining partnerships. Tears were shed, words were shouted, pleas were, erm, pleaded and the whole thing was by far the tensest episode yet.

For all our Restaurant new, reviews and interviews, go here.


This semi-final challenge episode was all about polishing, buffing up and smoothing down the rough edges. Whether the couples liked it or not.

First off, the chefs spent some time with Raymond at Le Manior. They had a root around in the bounteous garden, smelling herbs in a fashion wannabe chefs always do (scrunching the bunches of herbs up and taking deep breaths of their fragrance, before nodding knowingly, even if they haven’t got a clue what they’re smelling). Then it was into the kitchen, where Raymond showed them how to cook a risotto, filet and cook turbot with scallops (or scaloops if Ali was writing it) and peaches with poached meringue. They would cook this in their restaurants later. Being in the presence of Raymond on his manoir give them the willies, but they all, just about, came through it (even though James’s fish was undercooked and Tim’s timing was all out).

Meanwhile, Ali, Michelle and Lindsie were with David at one of his restaurants, learning about front of house. Goodness me, David was hardcore. David IS hardcore. He was very quiet, but one of his looks could’ve killed someone. He was the Silent Killer. He surely must have been a ninja in another life. His attention to detail was nothing short of anal, but this is the level that the shower had to emulate.

Then it was Sarah’s turn. She visited each restaurant, giving advice on how to smooth down their business edges and really maximise profits. She told James and Ali that they should be turning around more customers, and that a brasserie-style service would be better than a fine-dining one. Her harshest criticism was reserved for Tim and Lindsie. Their True Provenance concept meant that Tim was spending an astonishing 92 per cent on food costs. For a man who used to manage restaurants, this was criminal, Sarah commented. Tim, begrudgingly, agreed.

But on to the final part of the challenge. Raymond was sending each restaurant some top restaurateurs and chefs, people that had been trained by him and were now, consequently, festooned with Michelin stars.

The pressure was on again, and Russell seemed to be feeling it most. He went completely into his shell and was convinced he was going to get shut down. Why? He cooked well with Raymond, and was normally a very competent chef, so surely he didn’t have too much to worry about. But he retreated into a shell of fragility (honestly, he regressed into a small, nervous child) and he shut himself away. It was only a standing ovation from the diners at the end of the night that brought a smile back to his face again.

James and Ali, meanwhile, were doing ok at The Gallery. James though, still to grasp the concept of food costs and portioning things up, and was convinced that Raymond had not sent enough turbot to feed a full restaurant of people. He bought more fish in – some haddock instead (Raymond gave him both barrels for this later). They also decided to dispense with bread and go for some little homemade canapés instead. This did not please Raymond’s chums and Ali, who had decided not to introduce himself to the gang until about an hour was a bundle of nerves once again. After everything he has learned, and after all the progress he had made, it seemed he was reverting to type once again.

Tim and Lindsie’s True Prevenance was fully booked. Lindsie was amazing in this episode, she interrupted her husband a few times during the pre-service chat with staff, to make sure they knew what they were doing. You could tell this weirded Tim out as he was used to dishing out the orders to his previously timid, meek and mild wife. I’m not sure whether Tim was liking the way Lindsie was now a confident and excellent host.

And this continued throughout service. She would over to the service counter and hurry Tim along, much to his consternation. And, under the watchful eye of the Silent Killer, Tim mis-timed the turbot, it was Lindsie who gently cajoled him along.

At this point I really was torn between Russell and Michelle and Tim and Lindsie. The latter had had a bad week, no question, but the former’s confidence meltdown and leaving plates and cutlery on tables made me think that they might be up for the chop.

But no. In the end it was Tim and Lindsie who were shown the door. The judges were mega-harsh and tough on all the couples (James even sort of had a mini argument with Raymond about the bread), but before Tim and Lindsie were had their restaurant closed down, there was an amazing peice of television.

Raymond was taking Tim to task about the concept of the restaurant and the fact that he had 15 years of restaurant management under his belt should really tell him that 92 per cent food costs is just not on. Raymond asked him if the tables were turned and he was coming to Tim with the same numbers, would he hire him as a business partner.

A long pause.

Tim said no. Raymond couldn’t believe it. No? Lindsie, new-found confidence brimming, jumped in. “I feel that’s the wrong answer. I know my husband can do it, and I know we can do it.” She started to cry, he started to well up. Tim was definitely no longer the dominant partner of the relationship, and her transformation was complete. It was brilliant but sad.

The best episode of the series so far.

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One Response to “TV Review: The Restaurant, BBC Two, Thursday 24 October, 8pm”

  1. Dave says:

    “The best episode of the series so far.”

    …better than “scaloop” and “mayognaise”?

    I kid, although sort of not…for tragic comedy, that episode was unbeatable.

    What killed me about J&A this week was that A actually looked to be working brilliantly – managing the kitchen, getting things out on time, attending to every detail…and then he gets completely flustered by the special guests. I don’t really think he wants to run a restaurant – the only times we’ve seen him happy, in my opinion, have been when he’s been talking about his art.

    R&M have grated on me since day one, they’ve got it way too easy. Nice high street location, no discernible theme…to be honest I’m surprised that Raymond never really picked them up on the theme issue. Weren’t they meant to be doing some shtick with edible flowers or something? Instead they’ve just got this general idea of making people happy…well, yes, that’s the point of luxuries (like eating out).

    It gives them an unfair amount of freedom, really. T&L were tied down by this provenance gimmick which was always going to be hideously expensive and limiting in their menu, J&A similarly by trying to be as upmarket as possible. I thought part of the thing with The Restaurant was that you were meant to have some unique concept or identity that pervaded every aspect of your operation.

    Can’t argue too much with T&L going home. Is it me, though, or have they mentioned profits and takings MUCH less this series than last? I have a vague memory of usually being aware, last time, of which restaurants were making money at least…this time, although I think it was obvious, I think this was the first time it was actually stated that T&L had never turned a profit.

    J&A must win it from here, I think – if Raymond is willing to forgive their failings enough to put them in the final, my guess is that he’s willing to forgive their failings enough to let them win. Fair play, really – they are at least improving, while R&M seem to be going backwards.

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