Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's three-part documentary about chickens started strongly the night before last. I have to say it surpassed my expectations and turned out to be a fascinating, informative and even entertaining programme. I was expecting a real shocker – full of chicken blood and death and gloom. Of course, the subject is one that needs to be addressed and the rearing of chicken is something that bothers a lot of people, but still, as a television programme – helped considerably by HFW's boundless enthusiasm – it worked really well.
Judging by the trailers – HFW crying his eyes out – the chances were that part two was going to be much moodier. Let's see what happens.
We pick up HFW's story at his self-made battery farm. He was finding it difficult to cope with the industry-standards and wearing of boiler suits – down at River Cottage he wears his wellies, breaths in the sweet Devon air and hasn't got a care in the world. This was an entirely different proposition.
His chickens were already getting bigger, and the stench of the shed was beginning to tell. His experiment saw him create one half for the bog-standard birds and some free-range birds, separated by a wooden wall. The bog-standard birds had artifical light for 23 hours a day to encourage constant eating (to make them fatter, quicker). They had no mental stimulation at all.
The free-range side had bails of hay, some footballs to play with and their own garden to chill out in. No wonder Hugh was feeling guilty.
After some more brush-offs from the supermarkets (he was still desperately trying to engage them in some sort of dialogue), he took a visit to the allotment (where he had instigated a community project, designed to show people who bought cheap birds what went into rearing free-range chickens) and was impressed. The estate community had taken to the project, and looked after the chickens every day. What Hugh was worried about was the fact that they were getting very close to the birds – some had already given them names. HFW wondered whether they may be getting too attached, but it was clear that the project was starting to change their attitudes. He pushed the point home by showing how far one bird could go, so he gathered the crew together to show them how they could produce an extra meal with leftovers. A tasty chicken risotto, which went down a storm.
Back at the shed, HFW's foreman, John, went about his business – daily vaccinations and health checks. Chicken rearing is such a ruthless business, and any bird that is underweight or has gammy legs is immediately wrenched from the crowd and has its neck snapped. If it's not an economically viable bird it has to go, simple as that. The shots of birds having their necks snapped were not particularly nice, and it was clear that HFW wasn't quite as rigorous in his checks as John.
It was time to show the allotment crew the harsh reality of intensive farming. He dressed everyone in the requisite boiler suits, and took them to show the free range side. All fine. Then he showed them the instensive side and it was a different story – the sight of so many chickens crammed into a small space reduced everyone to tears. Everyone, that is, apart from Hayley.
Throughout the two shows Hayley had become an interesting character. She took the mick out of plummy Hugh at every opportunity, and maintained that, as a single mum, she could only afford the intensively-farmed birds. She didn't care about their conditions, she just knew what she could afford. After she had seen the intensive side, she was still steadfast, but she was out on a limb.
Then HFW had to do a morning check and the much-trailered sequence of HFW breaking down took place. He spotted two chickens that weren't moving, crippled under the weight of their over-fed bellies, and realised he had to snap their necks. He broke down and it was a genuinely touching moment.
The end of the show saw HFW call Jamie Oliver to the shed to see for himself what intensive chicken farming was all about, and HFW calling a town meeting in an attempt to make Axminster the UK's first free-range task.
Still enjoying it and still finding it interesting. It seemed to me the intensity was notched up tonight, and HFW's quest was really beginning to unravel. I'll be watching tomorrow night for sure.
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Hayley annoys me. She keeps going on about how she can only afford the cheap food when it's been explained that a free range chicken is £2 or so more expensive than an intensively farmed on. Maybe she should drop that £2 off her chocolate budget. How can people who are clearly obese claim they don't have the money to eat well?
congratulations to Hugh FW in exposing this barbarous practice. My family and I will only ever eat free range, preferably organic chickens from now on. I am concerned that the catering industry will not be using free range chickens or eggs unless specified which makes eating out, buying cakes etc problematic.
Trouble is it is not just free range = panacea. Ideally one buys organic, free range, non-supermarket chicken which does cost a fair bit more!
But it also tastes sooo much better!
fascinating programme bringing so many issues to our attention.i was genuinely moved by hughs tears last night,i know i would be the same! i have vowed never again to buy battery reared chickens and am even looking to get some chickens myself,tho just for eggs,mine too would have names!
Hayley is really annoying me now.i cannot understand why or how she wasnt moved by the spectacle of the battery chickens,she obviously find comfort in cakes and chocolate,tho how she affords to buy as much as she blattently consumes as a SINGLE parent baffles me.I do hope she comes around to hughs way of thinking soon because lots of people will not have much sympathy for her as she is
We have been watching the chicken out series and are big supporters of all his programmes. I have felt quite disgruntled with the negative comments, but also understand their comments.
The separation of beliefs I believe, comes from the lack of knowledge of the individuals culinary skills. If people had access to free basic cooking and shopping lessons, so they were able to buy less convinience foods and spend the budgeted cash on free range and be able to get more from their food by knowing exactly how to cook with fresh food in the same time it would take for the convinience food to cook. And to make it go further.
I would like to congratulate Hugh for bringing the barbaric farming of chickens to my attention. I knew chickens were farmed on a huge scale and guess i was being the proverbial Ostrich and burying my head in the sand rather than confront it. Although I also live on a small budget I have decided to eat chicken less often so I can afford to buy free range, I will also make my chicken go further. The day after the programme I decided to go to Asda to buy my first free range bird only to find they didn’t have any. The only alternative I found one ONE lonely organic bird sitting on the shelf at a cost of over ten pounds, too much for my pocket I’m afraid so I left with nothing rather that buy the usual intensely farmed bird.
I have spoken to lots of friends who are also moving over to free range, so don’t despair Hugh the word is out and your hard work has made a difference it may not have grabbed Axminster as you would have liked but you have grabbed many of us throughout the nation, Thank You.
Susie Connibeer
can anyone tell me where i can get Hugh FW "left over chicken risotto" recipe ????
This is in answer to Brian's question - You can find Hugh's left over chicken risotto recipe on www.chickenout.tv/3-meals I hope you enjoy it :O)