It’s quite hard to process in my brain… a reality TV show? At number 3 in the best shows of 2007? I’m sorry, it doesn’t make any sense. There should be some obscure comedy or something… a polish ballet that no-one watched except me. Thankfully, The Restaurant wasn’t just any old reality show and in fact, was one of the most exceptional bits of TV shown in years.

The show was based around a bunch of restaurants set up by novices. The winner would go into business with the legendary Raymond Blanc who would be stumping up his own cash. So many times you here two-bit chefs crying about how their reputations are on the line when dealing with the public in some unimportant game-show. Really? You wanna actually put your neck on the line like Raymond and in the process, give someone one of the most incredible opportunities of a lifetime.

The show, start to finish, was engrossing and a lesson in slow burning tension. As each week went by, the pressure was applied, but instead of cranking it up for cheap TV thrills, it was slowly fed through like purple gas. Raymond and his gang of experts quickly kicked the time-wasters into touch, leaving us with a bunch of people really going for it. However, again a first for a reality show, instead of seeing the contestants turn on each other in an attempt to win at any cost, we saw a real bonding which left the viewer with more emotional attachment than bargained for.

In the show, some real stars were born. The Tilli twins, preposterously positive and affable, won the nation’s heart by being thoroughly pleasant throughout. Martin and Emma showed grit, warmth and honesty to make just about everyone in the world feel like buying them a pint each and having a chin-wag with them. Grant and Laura, superbly confident and fun had ‘winner’ written all over them, only to fall at the last minute. The winners ended up being the deserved, if unpopular, Jeremy and Jane. It is testament to the show that Raymond & Co. went for the right choice as opposed to the popular choice. This was a TV programme sure, but Raymond wasn’t treating it like a game-show.

So with that gravity, the show became more fascinating with each twist and turn. People fought for their places in inventive and interesting challenges. Nothing demeaning, rather, hurdles filled with tasks that the contestant could actually learn from. Of course, like any reality show, there were tears, tantrums and rows, but my overriding memory is that of achievement and joy. There was so much to invest in, so many bonds made, that Raymond, casting his hand over proceedings, managed to turn his cookery magic into TV gold. A superb programme that may never be repeated… and that is our loss.