If you’ve missed out on The Restaurant (BBC Two, Wednesday, 8pm) so far, then I’m sorry to tell you that you’ve missed on of the finest shows of the year so far. This week, we finally get to the climactic conclusion where we see Raymond Blanc choose just who is going to get the chance of a lifetime and go into business with him. For once, the prize of a TV show is really worth crowing about. Of course, this chance doesn’t come cheap and the final contestants, Jess and Laura, Jeremy and Jane, will be asked to sweat blood. Naturally, that’s not meant literally as Blanc is nowhere near as odious as, say, Alan Sugar or the Dragon’s Den lot. However, his quiet and brooding authority has seen levels of respect that I’ve never seen on the box before.

To finally claim the prize, the contestants are dragged away from their familiar surroundings and packed off to Blanc’s home town of Besancon in France, where they have less than 48 hours to open their own restaurant for one night and introduce the French to British cuisine. No easy task eh? Not only that, they’ve got to impress Raymond’s mother. With the tension increased and the nerves of the participants now ultra fraught, we’ll inevitably see a few snaps and of course, some tears. This is to be the reality TV final of the decade and, what’s more, no-one but the experts get a say in the matter. Just how things should be.