I’ve got to level with you here. 9 times out of 10, Gordon Ramsay makes me want to kick the screen off my TV. He’s so knowingly loathsome that I often wonder if he is only able to reach arousal by screaming obscenities in people’s ears (that line of thinking led me to thinking about setting up a brothel full of deaf prostitutes…). That said, I can’t help my liking of Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares (Channel 4, Tuesday, 9pm) which starts a new series next week.

Ramsay, when faced with an ailing business, manages to mix some heart in with his usual chest beating nonsense, and Tuesday, we find the craggiest face on TV at a Brighton oyster joint call Ruby Tates. Naturally, Ruby Tates is… to put it bluntly… pissing pennies. As you’d expect, we find idle staff, awful food and an owner in denial. Ramsay manages to avoid his constant stream of scorn to become something close to nice. That in itself is worth tuning in for surely?